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Places: Sarajevo, with Dad: A Return to our Roots

In June 2012 my father and I visited Sarajevo, the city my grandparents once called home. The last time he breezed through this part of the world was in 1967. Dad doesn't remember any striking details about Sarajevo when he passed through as a young man. He didn't spend time strolling through the stone streets of the old town or whiling the day away drinking coffee with the locals. So now, 45 years later, he was going to do those things with me. 

For me, this trip was a journey into the distant past to find traces of a time my grandparents knew, the present to satiate my curiosity to see the impacts of the recent conflict and how the city has rebuilt itself thus far, and the future to glean firsthand clues of where it could be headed.  

For a more in-depth travelogue on this visit to Sarajevo, visit my blog at:  

Sarajevo: Surfaces; The Book and The Bridge; Dezvas, Headscarves and Lots of Mascara; and finally, To Return. 

 

  • Dad.
  • Residence with markings from the 1992-1995 siege.
  • Sebilj Trg Square.
  • Muslim graveyard at the top of Logavina Street.
  • 
“There are no jobs!” The tomato vendor (right) lamented. “There is no money!”
  • At the Markale Market, the site of a mortar explosion that killed dozens in 1994 is enshrined under glass.
  • Gaping potholes had, at one time years ago, been filled with red wax by a relief organization and subsequently called Sarajevo's Roses.
  • New and old construction in Sarajevo.
  • The Sarajevska Pivara brewery (back right corner), at one time, was the only source of water for besieged Sarajevans during the 1992-1995 war. It, too, was bombed.
  • Sarajevans along the Ferhedija, the main pedestrian street in the Old Town. The women here are not exactly shrinking violets, given the copious amounts of lip gloss, rouge, mascara and eyeshadow they pile on. Various journalists have written that during the siege of Sarajevo, women continued to wear makeup as they went to the market, in part as an act of defiance against the abnormalcy of war, and, in part, because of the importance they place on their appearance. Once supplies dried up, they resorted to creating their makeup from crude homemade supplies. Nowadays a forest of black spikes surround the eyes of Sarajevo's young women to complement their hot pink lipstick.
  • At night in the Bascarsija. The impacts of the 1992-1995 war are evident both in the bullet-riddled building facades as well as among the population.
  • Kazandziluk street, where mortar shells and bullets that have been repurposed into vases and pens are sold.
  • Sarajevans along the Ferhadija, the main pedestrian street in the Old Town.
  • Sarajevans out at night. 

Sarajevo is boisterous and does not go to bed early. My hotel was centrally located in the old part of town and I was lulled to sleep by the thumping of Europop as young people crowded the cafes long past midnight, ebullient cheers emanating from clubs where big TV screens showing the Eurocup finals lit up the night.
  • Dezva for drinking coffee in Bosnia.
  • At Morica Han, a popular cafe.

At noon, across cafes in Sarajevo, locals begin to stream in, ordering coffee from tiny traditional dezvas poured into even tinier coffee cups, where the delicious bitter black substance rests above the thick molasses of coffee grounds that have nestled to the bottom. Locals gesture, laugh, smoke, sit; and the cafes don't clear out until long past midnight.
  • Dad.
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